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Sunscreens
If you use nothing else for your skin, daily use of sunscreen will prevent ongoing photo-damage and give your skin a chance to repair some of the damage already done. Look for a sunscreen that uses zinc or titanium dioxide as these barrier type products are best and are formulated in user friendly ways.( eg Rationale Daily Dose or Invisible Zinc.)
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA’s)
Daily use of an AHA serum or cream can reverse photo-damage in the dermis (deeper in the skin) and the epidermis (the surface layers), and increase collagen production, therfore improving the appearance of wrinkles, scars and pigmentation. It also helps unclog pores, prevent outbreaks, mildly exfoliates, hydrates and strengthens the skin barrier function.
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA’s)
BHA’s, like salicylic acid increase cell turnover and have a calming, anti-inflammatory action. They don’t penetrate as deeply as AHA’s so these do not promote new collagen.
Retinoids
Vitamin A and its metabolites have multiple effects on cell proliferation, cell health, healing and hydration. Skin treated with Vitamin A in an active form becomes less wrinkled and smoother with lightening of the pigmentation. Cultured human cell model studies show that it is effective in decreasing vascular and endothelial growth factor (VEGF) which is implicated in disorders such as rosacea.
Topical tretinoins like Retin A, Retrieve and Stieva A are very effective, but often irritate and some patients find them hard to tolerate. Retinol is not as effective and Retinyl Palmitate is a very weak derivative. Studies have now shown that Retinaldehyde (as in Rationale Skin Care) is as effective as the tretinoins over time and without the irritation.
No trials have been done with these products in pregnancy, so their use is not recommended in pregnancy.
Vitamin E
Topical Vitamin E enhances the antioxidant effect of Vitamin C. It has some moisturising effects but no benefit in the skin healing process.
Vitamin C
L-ascorbic acid is a biologically active form of Vitamin C and a powerful antioxidant that regulates the production of collagen and regenerates Vitamin E. Dietary intake does not result in high enough levels in the skin to combat our environmental damage.
Topical Vitamin C is an excellent free radical scavenger and decreases UV light induced phototoxicity, but it is easliy degraded by light and heat and its skin penetration is erratic so many preparations on the market are of limited value.
Niacinamide
Studies have shown benefits including improved barrier function, decreased sebum production, reduced pigmentation and improvement in elasticity. It reduces sensitivity and is an anti-irritant. Recently studies have shown that niacinamide also protects against the immune suppression caused by UV light that contributes to skin cancer formation. Thus it is reasonable to suggest it will help reduce rates of skin cancer.
Green Tea
Green tea is often used in cosmetic products despite little evidence of effectiveness. The concentration needed to help photo-ageing is too much of an irritant to be used.
Estriol and Phytoestrogens
Promotes elasticity. Helps smooth and soften dry skin. Especially useful in mature skin.
Moisturisers (Cosmetic Industry Myth)
Moisturisers do not in fact moisturise the skin, They occlude the skin, stop evaporation and restore the barrier function of the surface of the skin. They will not prevent or combat the aging process but can help with dryness and eczema. Lifelong application of moisturisers will not stimulate collagen or elastic fibre formation or help with pigmentation or spider vein formation.
Zinc
All body tissue contains zinc. It is important for normal growth and development and normal immune function. It is a strong antioxidant and thus protects against UV damage, enhances wound healing and immune function.
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